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Camper Repair Shop Anaheim

Published Jun 10, 25
11 min read

Camper Service And Repair Anaheim, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Repair Shop Anaheim. I'm assuming the repair will entail changing that entire length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got busted braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, major repairs, and so on, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we recognized the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, and so on, is fine. The back brace assembly is fine, but the front one is split near the bottom and completely broken through on top, so that the leading support arm no longer attaches to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio sensible? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier gray steel - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just intending to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would like suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly even get us with the summer season - without having to place in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to locate a quick and effective remedy. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to get rid of the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pushing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially before the last actions of this post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of just how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step till the awning was on the ground yet I observed this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing bracket on the. Eliminating the placing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Right here's a consider the round channel at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, after that you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's similar to getting rid of the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut the end with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You may have to cut the end with an energy blade if it is covered under. Simply pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just slides straight off the canvas by gliding the entire rail away.

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As soon as the two set screws were removed I can move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can remove the old roofing system decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I just pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. To lift that, the edge molding have to be gotten rid of.

I might swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I changed from a scraper to a rigid 6 large putty blade. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. Then I loosened up the various other corner trim in the same method, and curved it sideways just enough so that I might raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which means I'll end eliminating those corner trim pieces all the method down besides. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge. Exact same bargain again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down yet adhesive at this factor) and after that I might yank out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

Once I scraped up some of the busted bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that joins the pieces together. I do not recognize just how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof covering was losing toughness and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

It's simply standing out via the staples. The edge of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Very same bargain once more. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down but glue at this moment) and then I can pull out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Camper Repair Shop Anaheim. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

When I scratched up a few of the busted little bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point began to bring up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framing beneath. After that the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I don't understand how exactly they handled to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly understood the roof was losing toughness and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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