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Brea Camper Awning Replacement

Published May 29, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Shop Brea, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is slid into has drawn away from the wall and turned a little bit - Brea Camper Awning Replacement. I'm thinking the repair work will involve replacing that entire length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually got broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair services, etc, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we realized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is fine. The back bracket setting up is great, however the front one is broken at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Does this sound affordable? Also the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier gray metal - it's the grey bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wishing to see to it we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one item is broken it has to be totally replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as guidance as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even get us through the summer - without having to place in a brand name new awning! We're in an extremely severe bind since we have a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a fast and effective option. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Renovation Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof covering decking, I require to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pushing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the last steps of this article (revealing the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's a detail of how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually need to do this step till the awning was on the ground however I observed this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded edge at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the right. Getting rid of the mounting brace of the awning. When the mounting brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is generally much like a routine item of light weight aluminum roof covering edge trim molding other than that at the bottom edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing like me, then you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's simply like removing the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut the end with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and afterwards simply yank it out.

You might have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was fastened under it. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves straight off the canvas by sliding the whole rail away.

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When the two set screws were removed I could slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rustic staples holding it down. I tore them out as best I could. The next point holding back the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the edge molding need to be gotten rid of.

After that I could swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same way, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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The edge of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down however glue now) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the busted bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that joins the items with each other. I do not understand just how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roof covering was shedding strength and rigidity as I drew up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the initial joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

It's simply popping via the staples. Lastly the edge of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Same bargain once again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this point) and afterwards I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Brea Camper Awning Replacement. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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Pop Up Camper Repair Brea, CACamper Awning Replacement Brea, CA


I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. I began carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners whatsoever holding back the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scratched up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing started to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I could see the steel framing underneath. However then the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I do not understand how precisely they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are joined with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roofing was losing strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just before the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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