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Pop Up Camper Repair Irvine

Published Jun 01, 25
11 min read

Camper Service And Repair Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking handles tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, but retracted both awning simply to be safe. A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rainfall gutter had been drawn away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right hand end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually drawn away from the wall surface and turned a little bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Irvine. I'm assuming the fixing will involve changing that whole length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We've obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair work, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we realized the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out since it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket setting up is great, but the front one is broken at the base and completely broken through on top, so that the top support arm no more attaches to the camper. We are in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Pop Up Camper Repair Irvine).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it needs to be entirely replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was new during that time. If nothing else, we would such as guidance regarding just how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even obtain us through the summertime - without having to place in an all new awning! We remain in a really significant bind because we have a journey planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I would certainly instead discover a fast and reliable remedy. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roofing outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off first before the last steps of this message (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Below's an information of how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really need to do this action until the awning was on the ground but I noticed this set screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical edge at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing bracket on the right. Getting rid of the mounting bracket of the awning. Once the placing brackets are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is essentially simply like a normal piece of aluminum roof covering edge trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. Here's a check out the circular network at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, after that you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might need to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. After that simply yank it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty rapidly.

Once the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point instantly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Simply know it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When the two established screws were removed I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass change. To raise that, the corner molding have to be gotten rid of.

I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I could turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scraper to a stiff 6 broad putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I switched from a scraper to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the very same method, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which means I'll finish removing those corner trim items all the means down. We'll get to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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The edge of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down but adhesive at this moment) and after that I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole point began to bring up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I can see the steel framework beneath. But after that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the items with each other. I don't recognize just how specifically they handled to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The items of roofing ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roof covering was losing stamina and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just before the first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The edge of the roof decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this factor) and afterwards I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Pop Up Camper Repair Irvine. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners in any way holding back the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I might see the steel framing below. After that the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the pieces with each other. I don't know just how precisely they handled to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly realized the roofing system was shedding toughness and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off simply before the initial joint. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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