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(I didn't have the securing handles tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, however retracted both awning just to be risk-free. Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Ontario Camper Service Center. I'm presuming the fixing will entail replacing that entire length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we understood the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is fine. The rear brace setting up is great, however the front one is cracked at the base and totally appeared on top, to ensure that the leading support arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Ontario Camper Service Center).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as suggestions as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe also obtain us via the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd rather discover a fast and efficient option. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roofing decking, I require to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to establish on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also notice how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially before the last steps of this blog post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually need to do this step till the awning got on the ground however I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting bracket on the right. Removing the placing bracket of the awning. When the installing braces are detached, it's time to remove the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is primarily much like a regular item of aluminum roofing side trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Here's a take a look at the round network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, after that you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You might have to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. After that simply yank it out! As soon as the plastic screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty quickly.

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. Once I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as both established screws were removed I could slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can remove the old roofing system decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some corroded staples stifling. I tore them out as ideal I could. The following point holding back the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once more I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the edge molding have to be removed.

I could turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I changed from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the various other corner trim in the exact same means, and curved it laterally just sufficient so that I might lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim pieces right down besides. We'll get to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's just standing out via the staples. The side of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Exact same deal once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down but adhesive now) and then I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Now I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began thoroughly peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scraped up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing started to draw up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how precisely they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly realized the roof was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

It's just standing out via the staples. The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the leading edge. Very same offer once more. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting yet glue now) and then I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Ontario Camper Service Center. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts in all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scratched up several of the broken little bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to pull up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I can see the steel framework under. After that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand just how precisely they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

I quickly realized the roof covering was losing stamina and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the initial joint. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.