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(I really did not have the locking handles tightened down.) I really did not see anything amiss, but retracted both awning just to be secure. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.
It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually pulled away from the wall and twisted a bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Atwood. I'm presuming the fixing will involve replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out
We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the store to be repaired.
The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is fine. The back bracket setting up is great, yet the front one is fractured at the base and totally damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no much longer fastens to the camper.
Does this audio sensible? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a heavier grey steel - it's the gray little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation.
The RV is a 2007, however we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would like recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even get us with the summer season - without having to put in a brand brand-new awning!
If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a fast and efficient solution. Anyone? Please!.
Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Remodelling Series!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roofing system trim molding from three sides of the roofing system. In order to get rid of the fourth one, I require to get rid of the RV awning.
In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof decking, I need to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to establish on the ground.
You'll likewise notice how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the last steps of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).
Below's an information of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't really have to do this action up until the awning was on the ground yet I noticed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went in advance and unscrewed it.
Once both screws are removed, just pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roofing.
Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing bracket on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning.
To change the roof, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof covering like me, after that you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.
Going down the legs a few notches to reduce the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.
You might have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Simply pull it out!
When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.
Just understand it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.
This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.
I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the best end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply moves right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail away.
Once the 2 set screws were eliminated I could move the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roofing decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.
The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I just pried up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.
Nevertheless I may finish up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. The roofing decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift need to be raised. To raise that, the corner molding should be eliminated.
After that I might turn the trim mold off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can swing that item of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.
I changed from a scrape to a tight 6 large putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I changed from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the other edge trim in the exact same way, and bent it sidewards simply sufficient so that I can lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.
I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which implies I'll finish eliminating those corner trim pieces all the method down. However we'll reach that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.
It's just popping via the staples. The side of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge. Same offer again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.
Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much quieting yet adhesive at this moment) and then I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.
I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!
When I scratched up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole point started to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.
There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize just how specifically they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I promptly understood the roof was losing stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off right before the first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.
I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those corner trim items all the way down after all. However we'll get to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.
The side of the roofing system decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.
Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting yet glue at this moment) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Atwood. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood
I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!
As soon as I scuffed up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to pull up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.
There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the items together. I do not recognize exactly how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I swiftly recognized the roofing system was losing strength and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off right before the very first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.
Camper Repair Atwood, CATable of Contents
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