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Camper Service And Repair Diamond Bar

Published Jun 06, 25
11 min read

Camper Service Diamond Bar, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything amiss, however retracted both awning simply to be secure. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been drawn away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is glided right into has pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Service And Repair Diamond Bar. I'm presuming the repair service will involve changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out since it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, but the front one is broken at the base and entirely broken through at the top, so that the top support arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Does this sound reasonable? Also the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier grey steel - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If nothing else, we would like suggestions as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also obtain us with the summer - without having to place in a brand brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to find a fast and reliable service. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roofing decking, I need to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally notice exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the final steps of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Right here's a detail of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not in fact have to do this action up until the awning was on the ground yet I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I went in advance and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. Right here's a check out the circular network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing system like me, then you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's just like removing the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out!

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you begin drawing the awning rail away it will instantly snap cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. Once the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides straight off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were eliminated I might slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can remove the old roofing system outdoor decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples holding it down. I pried them out as finest I could. The following thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and took out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. The roof covering decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass shift need to be lifted. To raise that, the corner molding need to be removed.

Then I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scrape to a tight 6 vast putty knife. This piece chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened up the other edge trim in the exact same method, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end removing those corner trim items all the means down. We'll obtain to that later. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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It's just standing out with the staples. The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Same deal once again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting however glue at this point) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can draw out the last little rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framework under. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the items together. I don't understand just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roof covering was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The side of the roof decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Service And Repair Diamond Bar. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I started meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding back the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scuffed up several of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framework underneath. After that the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the pieces with each other. I don't understand exactly how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly recognized the roofing was shedding strength and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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