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Camper Roof Repair Near Me Pomona

Published Jun 05, 25
12 min read

Camper Service And Repair Pomona, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything amiss, yet retracted both awning just to be safe. A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rain seamless gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the appropriate hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has drawn away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Roof Repair Near Me Pomona. I'm assuming the repair work will require replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We've obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we question if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we recognized the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, however the front one is cracked at the bottom and totally damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Does this audio sensible? Even the real support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier grey steel - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it has to be entirely replaced? The RV is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was all new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even obtain us with the summer - without having to put in an all new awning! We're in an extremely serious bind due to the fact that we have a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or held off.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a fast and reliable option. Any person? Please!.

Invite to my RV Renovation Series!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing system trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof decking, I require to remove the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll also observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final actions of this article (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this step until the awning was on the ground yet I noticed this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning. As soon as the mounting brackets are separated, it's time to remove the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily much like a normal item of light weight aluminum roofing edge trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is put under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You might have to reduce completion with an energy blade if it is covered under. Then just pull it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite swiftly.

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. When you begin pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the two set screws were removed I can slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples quieting. I tore them out as finest I could. The following thing holding back the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass change. The roofing system outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift must be raised. To lift that, the edge molding should be gotten rid of.

I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I switched from a scrape to a tight 6 vast putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I changed from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same means, and bent it sidewards just enough so that I might raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which means I'll finish eliminating those edge trim items all the means down. But we'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. Ultimately the side of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same offer once again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but glue now) and after that I could tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

When I scuffed up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing started to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the pieces together. I don't understand exactly how precisely they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roofing was losing stamina and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the initial joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's simply standing out via the staples. The side of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same bargain once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling however glue at this point) and afterwards I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Camper Roof Repair Near Me Pomona. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts in all holding down the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to draw up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the pieces with each other. I do not recognize just how exactly they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The items of roofing ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the very first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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